5208.12 - Plain weave, weighing more than 100 g/m²:

This HTS category, 5208.12, specifically classifies unbleached woven fabrics of cotton, where cotton constitutes 85% or more by weight and the fabric weighs more than 100 g/m² but not more than 200 g/m². These fabrics are characterized by a plain weave construction, meaning the warp and weft threads interlace one over and one under. This weight and weave combination typically results in fabrics suitable for a range of industrial and domestic applications, such as sheeting, canvas, or certain types of apparel linings, before any bleaching or further processing.

Distinguishing 5208.12 from its siblings, 5208.11 covers plain weave fabrics that are lighter, weighing not more than 100 g/m². Conversely, 5208.13.00.00 pertains to fabrics with a twill weave construction, a distinct interlacing pattern. Category 5208.19 encompasses other types of unbleached woven cotton fabrics within the specified weight range that do not fall under the plain weave or twill weave descriptions.

The subcategories within 5208.12 further refine the classification based on the yarn count, a measure of yarn fineness. 5208.12.40 covers fabrics made with yarns of a lower count (42 or lower), generally indicating coarser yarns. 5208.12.60 applies to fabrics woven with yarns falling within the mid-range count of 43 to 68. Finally, 5208.12.80 is for fabrics utilizing finer yarns, specifically those with a count of 69 or higher. This subdivision allows for greater specificity in trade statistics and tariff application.