5208.12.40.20 - Poplin or broadcloth (314)

This HTS category, 5208.12.40.20, specifically classifies unbleached woven cotton fabrics that are a poplin or broadcloth weave. These fabrics must contain 85 percent or more cotton by weight and weigh not more than 200 g/m². The weave construction is a key determinant, with poplin and broadcloth characterized by a plain weave where warp yarns are finer and more numerous than weft yarns, creating a smooth, lustrous surface.

To distinguish this category from its siblings, it's important to note the specific weave type. While 5208.12.40.40 also falls under unbleached plain weave cotton fabrics exceeding 100 g/m² and of number 42 or lower, it covers "sheeting," which typically has a more even thread count between warp and weft, resulting in a less pronounced rib effect than poplin. Similarly, 5208.12.40.90, "cheesecloth," refers to a much coarser, open-weave fabric. Therefore, the defining characteristic here is the specific construction of poplin or broadcloth.

As this node represents a leaf in the HTS hierarchy, there are no further subcategories. Classification under this code is final and relies on meeting all the preceding criteria, including the material composition (at least 85% cotton), weight limitations (not exceeding 200 g/m²), the unbleached state, the plain weave structure, a weight greater than 100 g/m², and a yarn number of 42 or lower, in conjunction with the specific poplin or broadcloth weave.