5208.12.40 - Of number 42 or lower number

This HTS classification, 5208.12.40, specifically covers unbleached woven fabrics of cotton that are of plain weave, weigh more than 100 g/m², and are made from yarn of number 42 or lower. This designation is crucial for distinguishing these fabrics based on the fineness of the yarn used. The "number" of yarn refers to its weight or count, where a lower number indicates a coarser or thicker yarn.

These fabrics are differentiated from their siblings, 5208.12.60 (yarn numbers 43 to 68) and 5208.12.80 (yarn number 69 or higher), by this specific yarn count criterion. While all fall under the broader category of unbleached, plain weave cotton fabrics exceeding 100 g/m², the yarn fineness dictates their placement within this group. Therefore, fabrics classified here will exhibit a coarser texture and potentially a heavier feel compared to those made with finer yarns.

Within this category, further subdivisions exist to refine the classification based on specific fabric constructions. The subcategories include Poplin or broadcloth (5208.12.40.20), Sheeting (5208.12.40.40), and Cheesecloth (5208.12.40.90). These subdivisions allow for more precise identification of the fabric's intended use and weave characteristics, even within the defined range of yarn numbers and weight.