5208.12.80 - Of number 69 or higher number

This HTS category, 5208.12.80, encompasses unbleached woven fabrics of cotton that are of a plain weave and weigh more than 100 g/m², specifically those made from yarn of a number 69 or higher. This numbering system refers to the English Cotton Count, where a higher number indicates finer yarn. Therefore, the fabrics classified here are constructed using relatively fine cotton yarns, contributing to their specific textural and weight characteristics.

These fabrics are distinguished from their sibling categories, 5208.12.40 and 5208.12.60, by the fineness of the yarn used. While all fall under unbleached, plain weave cotton fabrics exceeding 100 g/m², this particular category exclusively includes fabrics made with yarn numbered 69 or above, signifying the finest yarn counts within this group. The preceding sibling categories cover fabrics made with coarser to medium yarn counts, as defined by their respective number ranges.

Within this category, further subdivisions exist to provide more granular classification. Subcategory 5208.12.80.20 covers specific weaves like poplin or broadcloth, which are characterized by their tightly woven structure and smooth finish, often achieved with finer yarns. Subcategory 5208.12.80.90 encompasses other fine cotton fabrics such as cheesecloth, lawns, voiles, or batistes, which typically exhibit a lighter weight and more open weave despite being made from fine yarn. These subdivisions allow for precise identification based on the specific weave construction and resultant fabric properties.