5208.12.80.20 - Poplin or broadcloth (314)

This HTS category, 5208.12.80.20, specifically covers unbleached, plain weave cotton fabrics that are of number 69 or higher thread count. These fabrics are characterized by their weight, exceeding 100 g/m², and are composed of 85 percent or more cotton by weight, while not exceeding 200 g/m². The term "poplin or broadcloth" denotes a specific type of plain weave construction with a fine, even texture and a high thread count, commonly used for apparel and home textiles.

To distinguish this category from its sibling, 5208.12.80.90, it is crucial to note the specific types of fabrics listed under the sibling. While both are unbleached, plain weave cotton fabrics meeting the weight and cotton content criteria, the sibling category encompasses cheesecloth, lawns, voiles, and batistes. These fabrics generally have a lighter weight or a more open weave than poplin or broadcloth, despite also being classified under the broader "plain weave, weighing more than 100 g/m²" parent node.

As a leaf node, this classification does not have further subcategories. Therefore, the focus for accurate classification rests on verifying the fabric's construction (plain weave, poplin or broadcloth type), its unbleached state, its weight and cotton content within the specified parameters, and crucially, its thread count being number 69 or higher. Precise adherence to these criteria ensures correct identification and avoids misclassification with other woven cotton fabrics.