5514.12.00 - 3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill, of polyester staple fibers

This HTS category, 5514.12.00, specifically classifies woven fabrics of synthetic staple fibers, predominantly polyester, that contain less than 85% polyester staple fibers by weight and are mixed mainly or solely with cotton. These fabrics must also exceed a weight of 170 g/m². The defining characteristic for this subcategory is its weave structure: it must be a 3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill.

Within the broader group of "Woven fabrics of synthetic staple fibers, containing less than 85 percent by weight of such fibers, mixed mainly or solely with cotton, of a weight exceeding 170 g/m²," this code is distinct from its sibling, 5514.11.00, which covers similar fabrics but in a plain weave construction. Therefore, the twill construction is the primary differentiating factor at this level.

This classification further breaks down based on the finishing treatment applied to the fabric. The subcategories, 5514.12.00.20 (not napped) and 5514.12.00.40 (napped), differentiate between fabrics that have undergone a napping process (raising the surface fibers to create a softer texture) and those that have not. This distinction is important for identifying the final feel and potential end-uses of the fabric.