5514.12.00.40 - Napped (617)

This HTS classification, 5514.12.00.40, pertains to woven fabrics specifically constructed from synthetic staple fibers, where these fibers constitute less than 85% by weight of the total composition, and are primarily blended with cotton. The fabric must exceed 170 g/m² in weight and be manufactured using a 3-thread or 4-thread twill weave, which includes cross twill constructions. Crucially, the goods classified here are characterized by being "napped," a finishing process that raises the fibers on the surface of the fabric to create a soft, fuzzy texture.

This classification is distinguished from its sibling category, 5514.12.00.20, solely by the finishing treatment applied. While both categories cover identical fabric compositions, weights, and weave structures of polyester staple fibers blended with cotton, the .20 subheading denotes fabrics that are *not* napped. Therefore, the presence or absence of this specific napping process is the decisive factor in selecting between these two classifications.

As this is a leaf node within the HTS, there are no further subcategories. Classification at this level is determined by the combination of material composition, weight, weave type, and the specific finishing process of napping. Examples of products that would fall under this classification include certain types of durable yet soft twill-weave upholstery fabrics, robust linings for apparel, or specific types of workwear where a raised surface provides added warmth or a distinct aesthetic.