5514.12.00.20 - Not napped (617)

This HTS category, 5514.12.00.20, specifically classifies unbleached or bleached woven fabrics predominantly composed of polyester staple fibers, where these fibers constitute less than 85% of the total weight and are mixed mainly or solely with cotton. The fabric must exceed 170 grams per square meter in weight and be characterized by a 3-thread or 4-thread twill weave, which includes cross twill construction. This means the fabric exhibits a diagonal ribbed pattern formed by the interlacing of warp and weft yarns, with the floats progressing in a diagonal line.

The defining characteristic distinguishing this category from its sibling, 5514.12.00.40, is the absence of napping. Napping is a finishing process that raises the surface fibers of a fabric to create a soft, fuzzy texture. Therefore, fabrics classified here are deliberately excluded from this napping treatment, presenting a smoother, less fibrous surface compared to their napped counterparts.

As this is a leaf node within the HTS, there are no further subcategories. Classification at this level is determined by the specific combination of fiber composition (less than 85% polyester staple fiber mixed mainly or solely with cotton), fabric weight (exceeding 170 g/m²), weave type (3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill), and the absence of napping. This precise specification ensures that only the intended types of woven fabrics, typically used in apparel, home furnishings, and industrial applications where durability and specific weave patterns are desired, are correctly identified for customs purposes.