5212.11.10 - Containing 36 percent or more by weight of wool or fine animal hair

This category, HTS Code 5212.11.10, specifically classifies woven cotton fabrics that weigh not more than 200 g/m², are unbleached, and contain 36 percent or more by weight of wool or fine animal hair. These are "other" woven cotton fabrics that do not fit into more specific classifications within Chapter 52. The key defining features are the cotton base, the specified weight limit, the unbleached state, and the significant inclusion of wool or fine animal hair, which imparts distinct characteristics and potential end-uses to the fabric.

It is important to distinguish this category from its sibling, HTS Code 5212.11.60, which is designated for "Other" woven fabrics under the same weight and unbleached criteria. While both are broadly categorized as "other woven fabrics of cotton," HTS 5212.11.10 has the exclusive requirement of containing at least 36% wool or fine animal hair. The sibling category would encompass unbleached cotton woven fabrics weighing not more than 200 g/m² that *do not* meet this wool content threshold or are not otherwise specified.

Within HTS 5212.11.10, further subdivision occurs based on the processing of the cotton fibers. Subcategory 5212.11.10.10 covers fabrics made from uncombed cotton (referred to as "not combed"), while 5212.11.10.20 applies to fabrics where the cotton fibers have undergone a combing process ("combed"). The distinction between combed and uncombed cotton is significant as it affects the yarn's quality, strength, and feel, thus impacting the finished fabric's properties and potential applications.