5212.11 - Unbleached:

This HTS category, 5212.11, specifically covers "Unbleached" woven fabrics of cotton that weigh no more than 200 grams per square meter. The "unbleached" designation is crucial, indicating that these fabrics have undergone minimal processing after weaving and have not been subjected to bleaching agents to remove natural coloration. This includes fabrics in their natural state as they come off the loom, retaining the inherent color and texture of the cotton fibers.

The distinction between this category and its siblings lies in the finishing treatment of the fabric. While 5212.11 is reserved for unbleached cotton woven fabrics, sibling categories like 5212.12 (Bleached), 5212.13 (Dyed), 5212.14 (Of yarns of different colors), and 5212.15 (Printed) account for fabrics that have undergone these respective finishing processes. Therefore, the absence of bleaching is the primary differentiator for classification under 5212.11.

Within the 5212.11 category, further subdivision is provided by 5212.11.10 and 5212.11.60. The former addresses a specific scenario where the unbleached cotton fabric contains a significant proportion (36% or more by weight) of wool or fine animal hair, indicating a blended textile. The latter, "Other," serves as a catch-all for unbleached woven cotton fabrics weighing not more than 200 g/m² that do not meet the compositional criteria of the preceding subcategory, encompassing the vast majority of pure unbleached cotton fabrics fitting the weight and weave criteria.