5211.12.00 - 3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill

This HTS classification covers woven fabrics of cotton that contain less than 85 percent by weight of cotton, mixed mainly or solely with man-made fibers, and weigh more than 200 grams per square meter. Specifically, this category is for fabrics exhibiting a 3-thread or 4-thread twill weave, including cross twill patterns. These fabrics are generally heavier and exhibit a diagonal ribbing characteristic of twill construction.

Distinguishing this category from its siblings, 5211.11.00 covers fabrics with a plain weave, which is a simpler interlacing pattern without the distinctive diagonal lines of twill. The sibling category 5211.19.00 encompasses "other fabrics" within this grouping, meaning any woven cotton fabric meeting the general weight and fiber composition criteria but not falling under the specific twill or plain weave descriptions. Therefore, the key differentiator for 5211.12.00 is its specific twill weave construction.

Within this classification, further subdivisions are made based on the finishing treatment of the fabric. Subcategories 5211.12.00.20 refer to fabrics that are not napped, meaning the surface remains relatively smooth and without a raised, fuzzy texture. Conversely, subcategory 5211.12.00.40 covers napped fabrics, which have undergone a process to raise a fuzzy surface, often for increased warmth or a softer feel. These napping treatments are a critical factor in the final characteristics and uses of the fabric.