5211.12.00.40 - Napped (317)

This HTS category, 5211.12.00.40, specifically classifies unbleached woven fabrics of cotton, containing less than 85 percent by weight of cotton and mixed mainly or solely with man-made fibers, weighing more than 200 g/m². The defining characteristic of this classification is that the fabric has undergone a napping process. Napping is a finishing technique that raises a fibrous surface on the fabric, creating a soft, fuzzy texture. This type of finish is often applied to fabrics intended for warmth and comfort.

This classification is distinguished from its sibling, 5211.12.00.20, by the presence or absence of the napped finish. While both categories fall under the same broader group of unbleached cotton-blended twill fabrics weighing over 200 g/m², the "napped" designation is the sole differentiating factor. Therefore, goods classified here must exhibit the characteristic fuzzy surface created by the napping process, whereas the sibling category covers identical fabrics that have not been napped.

As this is a leaf node within the HTS, there are no further subcategories. Classification within 5211.12.00.40 is therefore dependent on the precise characteristics of the fabric itself: its fiber content (less than 85% cotton, predominantly mixed with man-made fibers), its weave structure (3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill), its weight (over 200 g/m²), and its finishing state (unbleached and napped).