5211.12.00.20 - Not napped (317) 🖩

This HTS category encompasses woven fabrics of cotton that are specifically not napped. These fabrics contain less than 85 percent by weight of cotton, with man-made fibers being the predominant admixture. Furthermore, to fall within this classification, the fabric must weigh more than 200 grams per square meter and exhibit a 3-thread or 4-thread twill weave, which includes cross twill constructions. The "not napped" designation signifies that the surface of the fabric has not undergone a process of raising the fibers to create a fuzzy or raised texture.

This category is distinguished from its sibling, HTS code 5211.12.00.40, by the absence of a napped finish. While both categories share the same composition (less than 85% cotton, mixed mainly with man-made fibers), weight requirement (over 200 g/m²), and weave structure (3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill), the key differentiating factor is the surface treatment. Fabrics classified under 5211.12.00.40 will have a raised or brushed surface due to the napping process, whereas the fabrics in this category will have a smoother, un-napped finish.

As this is a leaf node within the HTS, there are no further subcategories. Classification at this level is determined by the precise combination of material content, weight, weave structure, and the presence or absence of a napped surface. Therefore, it is crucial for importers and exporters to accurately assess these characteristics to ensure correct classification of their woven cotton blend fabrics. Examples of goods that could fall here include certain types of durable twill workwear fabrics or upholstery materials meeting these specific criteria.