5209.22.00 - 3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill

This HTS category, 5209.22.00, specifically covers woven fabrics of cotton that contain 85% or more cotton by weight and weigh more than 200 g/m². These fabrics are characterized by a distinct weave construction: 3-thread or 4-thread twill, which includes cross twill. This weave pattern creates diagonal lines on the fabric surface and is achieved by interlacing the warp and weft yarns in a staggered manner, resulting in a characteristic diagonal rib.

Distinguishing this category from its siblings, 5209.21.00 (Plain weave) and 5209.29.00 (Other fabrics), is crucial for accurate classification. While all fall under the umbrella of bleached cotton fabrics weighing over 200 g/m², 5209.22.00 is exclusively for twill weaves. Plain weave fabrics, by contrast, have a simpler over-under interlacing of warp and weft yarns, creating a more uniform texture. "Other fabrics" encompasses any woven cotton fabric meeting the weight and cotton content criteria that does not fit the plain weave or twill weave descriptions.

Within this 3-thread or 4-thread twill category, further subdivisions exist to account for surface treatment. Subcategories 5209.22.00.20 and 5209.22.00.40 differentiate based on whether the fabric is napped or not napped. Napping involves raising the surface fibers of the fabric to create a soft, fuzzy texture. This distinction is important for certain end-uses and can impact the fabric's characteristics and market value.