5209.22.00.40 - Napped (317)

This HTS classification, 5209.22.00.40, specifically identifies woven fabrics of cotton that are bleached and feature a 3-thread or 4-thread twill weave, including cross twill. Crucially, these fabrics must contain 85 percent or more by weight of cotton and have a weight exceeding 200 grams per square meter. The defining characteristic of this specific subcategory is that the fabric has undergone a napping process, which raises the surface fibers to create a soft, fuzzy texture.

This category is distinguished from its sibling, 5209.22.00.20, by the presence of napping. While both classifications cover bleached, 3-thread or 4-thread twill woven cotton fabrics weighing over 200 g/m², the "napped" designation for 5209.22.00.40 signifies a distinct finishing treatment that alters the fabric's surface appearance and hand.

As this is a leaf node in the HTS structure, there are no further subcategories. Classification decisions at this level are therefore determined by the precise combination of material composition (cotton content), weight, weave type, bleaching status, and the presence or absence of a napped finish. Examples of goods that would fall under this classification include specific types of brushed twill cotton fabrics used for durable apparel, upholstery, or home furnishings where a soft, raised surface is desired.