5209.22.00.20 - Not napped (317)

This classification covers woven cotton fabrics that are characterized by a specific weave construction: 3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill. Crucially, these fabrics must contain 85 percent or more by weight of cotton and weigh more than 200 grams per square meter. The "bleached" designation indicates that the fabric has undergone a whitening process. This category specifically pertains to such fabrics that have *not* been napped after weaving.

The primary distinction for this subcategory lies in the absence of a napping process. Its sibling category, 5209.22.00.40, covers identical fabric construction and composition but is specifically for napped fabrics. Napping involves raising the surface fibers of the fabric to create a softer, fuzzier texture. Therefore, the key differentiating factor between this classification and its sibling is the finished surface treatment of the fabric.

As this is a leaf node, there are no further subdivisions. The classification is complete at this level, with the specific criteria of cotton content, weight, weave type (3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill), bleaching, and the absence of napping determining the classification of the goods. Examples of products falling here would include certain types of sturdy, plain-weave cotton fabrics intended for use in upholstery, heavy-duty apparel, or technical textiles where a smooth, un-napped surface is desired.