5208.11 - Plain weave, weighing not more than 100 g/m²:

This HTS category, 5208.11, specifically covers unbleached woven fabrics of cotton. To fall within this classification, the fabric must contain 85 percent or more by weight of cotton and weigh no more than 200 g/m². Crucially, within this group, 5208.11 applies to those fabrics woven in a plain weave construction and weighing not more than 100 g/m².

It is important to distinguish this category from its siblings. While all fall under unbleached woven cotton fabrics weighing not more than 200 g/m², 5208.12 covers plain weave fabrics that exceed 100 g/m² but remain within the 200 g/m² limit. Similarly, 5208.13.00.00 is reserved for twill weaves, and 5208.19 encompasses other types of fabric constructions not described as plain weave or twill.

The subcategories within 5208.11 further refine the classification based on the yarn count. The yarn count, often expressed as a "number," is a measure of yarn fineness, with higher numbers indicating finer yarns. The divisions into "number 42 or lower," "numbers 43 to 68," and "number 69 or higher" allow for more precise tariff application based on the specific textile construction and its intended end-use, which often correlates with yarn fineness.