5212.12.10.20 - Combed (410) 🖩

This classification pertains to woven fabrics of cotton that are not primarily defined by weight or weave structure, but rather by their finish and material composition. Specifically, it covers cotton fabrics weighing not more than 200 g/m², which have been bleached. The crucial distinguishing characteristic of this category is that the fabric contains 36 percent or more by weight of wool or fine animal hair, alongside the cotton. This blend signifies a departure from pure cotton fabrics and places it within a distinct classification reflecting its mixed fiber content and processing.

The distinction between this category and its sibling, 5212.12.10.10 ("Not combed"), lies in the preparatory treatment of the cotton fibers. While both are bleached, woven cotton fabrics weighing not more than 200 g/m² and containing a significant proportion of wool or fine animal hair, this subcategory specifically applies to fabrics where the cotton component has undergone a combing process. Combing aligns the cotton fibers, leading to a smoother, stronger, and more lustrous yarn, which in turn influences the quality and feel of the finished fabric. The sibling category, therefore, covers fabrics with similar weight, bleach status, and wool content but where the cotton fibers have not been combed.

As this node represents a leaf node in the HTS structure, there are no further subcategories. Classification within this code is therefore dependent on the precise determination of the fabric's weight (not exceeding 200 g/m²), its bleached status, the presence of 36% or more by weight of wool or fine animal hair, and the fact that the cotton component has been combed. This ensures that fabrics with these specific attributes are accurately identified for customs purposes.