5211.52.00.20 - Not napped (317)

This HTS category encompasses woven fabrics primarily composed of cotton, but with a significant inclusion of man-made fibers, specifically containing less than 85 percent by weight of cotton. These fabrics must weigh more than 200 grams per square meter. The defining characteristic for this classification is that the fabric has undergone a printing process. The weaves are specifically identified as 3-thread or 4-thread twill, which includes cross-twill constructions, contributing to the fabric's density and texture.

This classification is distinct from its sibling category, 5211.52.00.40, which covers similar twill woven fabrics of cotton mixed with man-made fibers exceeding 200 g/m², but specifically describes those that are napped. Napping is a finishing process that raises the fibers on the surface of the fabric, creating a soft, fuzzy texture, whereas the goods classified under 5211.52.00.20 are not subjected to this napping treatment.

As this is a leaf node within the HTS, there are no further subcategories. Therefore, the classification concludes at this level, with the printed, 3-thread or 4-thread twill, non-napped woven cotton fabric weighing over 200 g/m² and containing less than 85% cotton mixed mainly or solely with man-made fibers being the final determination for goods falling into this specific code. Practical classification relies on verifying the fabric's weight, its composition percentage, the type of weave, the presence or absence of a napping finish, and the fact that the fabric is printed.