5211.52.00 - 3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill

This HTS category, 5211.52.00, classifies printed woven fabrics of cotton. These fabrics are characterized by containing less than 85 percent by weight of cotton, being mixed predominantly or exclusively with man-made fibers, and possessing a weight exceeding 200 grams per square meter. The defining feature of this specific subcategory is its weave structure: a 3-thread or 4-thread twill, which includes cross twill. This weave pattern creates a distinct diagonal pattern on the fabric's surface, differentiating it from other weave types.

When classifying within the broader category of printed woven fabrics of cotton meeting the aforementioned weight and fiber composition criteria, it is crucial to distinguish this category from its siblings. 5211.51.00 specifically covers fabrics woven in a plain weave, which is the simplest and most common weave structure. Conversely, 5211.59.00 is reserved for "other fabrics" within this classification level that do not fall under the twill or plain weave designations. Therefore, the presence of a 3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill, is the definitive characteristic that places a fabric within this specific subcategory.

The subdivisions within 5211.52.00 further refine the classification based on the fabric's finishing treatment. The subcategory 5211.52.00.20 pertains to fabrics that are not napped, meaning their surface has not been brushed to raise the fibers. In contrast, 5211.52.00.40 covers napped fabrics, where the surface has undergone a brushing process to create a softer texture and a fuzzy nap. This distinction in finishing is a key criterion for accurate customs declaration within this classification.