5211.20.22.20 - Not napped (317)

This HTS classification, 5211.20.22.20, specifically covers woven fabrics of cotton that are *not napped*. These fabrics contain less than 85% cotton by weight, with the primary component being man-made fibers, and have a weight exceeding 200 grams per square meter. The "bleached" designation indicates that the fabric has undergone a process to remove natural coloration. The "3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill" descriptor defines the specific weave structure, characterized by diagonal parallel ribs formed by interlacing the warp and weft yarns in a staggered pattern, creating a distinct diagonal line effect.

This category is distinguished from its sibling, 5211.20.22.40, by the crucial characteristic of being "not napped." Napping is a finishing process that raises the fibers on the surface of the fabric to create a soft, fuzzy texture. Therefore, fabrics classified under 5211.20.22.20 will exhibit a smooth surface characteristic of un-napped textiles, whereas napped fabrics will have a distinct pile or fuzz.

As this is a leaf node within the HTS, there are no further subcategories. Classification at this level requires adherence to all preceding criteria: cotton-dominant woven fabrics, less than 85% cotton content with man-made fibers, weighing over 200 g/m², bleached, and featuring a 3-thread or 4-thread twill construction without a napped finish. Importers and exporters must ensure that the physical characteristics and manufacturing processes of their goods precisely match these detailed specifications for accurate customs declaration.