5211.20.22 - 3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill

This HTS category, 5211.20.22, specifically classifies bleached woven fabrics of cotton, containing less than 85 percent by weight of cotton and mixed mainly or solely with man-made fibers, weighing more than 200 g/m². The defining characteristic of this subcategory is its weave construction: a 3-thread or 4-thread twill, which includes cross twill weaves. These weaves create a distinctive diagonal pattern on the fabric surface, distinguishing them from simpler weave constructions.

Unlike its sibling category, 5211.20.21, which covers plain weave fabrics, this twill weave category is characterized by its more complex interlacing pattern of warp and weft threads, resulting in a more robust and often heavier fabric. Similarly, it differs from the residual category 5211.20.29, which is reserved for other types of fabrics not fitting into the plain weave or specified twill weave classifications.

Within this category, further distinctions are made based on the finishing treatment of the fabric. Subcategories exist for "Not napped" fabrics, which retain their inherent weave structure without any brushing treatment. Conversely, "Napped" fabrics have undergone a process to raise a soft nap on the surface, altering their texture and appearance. These subdivisions are crucial for precise classification based on the fabric's final processed state.