5209.52.00.20 - Not napped (317)

This HTS category, 5209.52.00.20, specifically covers woven cotton fabrics that are not napped. These fabrics must contain 85 percent or more cotton by weight and weigh over 200 grams per square meter. The defining characteristic of this classification is its construction: a 3-thread or 4-thread twill weave, which includes cross twill patterns. This specific weave structure, combined with the material composition and weight, differentiates these goods from other woven cotton fabrics within the broader category.

The primary distinction of this category lies in the absence of a napped finish. Its direct sibling, 5209.52.00.40, covers identical fabrics except that they have undergone a napping process, which raises the surface fibers to create a softer texture. Therefore, the decision to classify under this code hinges on whether the fabric has been subjected to napping or not.

As a leaf node, this category does not have further subdivisions. Classification at this level is definitive based on the fabric's cotton content, weight, weave structure (3-thread or 4-thread twill including cross twill), and the absence of a napped finish. This ensures precise identification for customs purposes, facilitating accurate duty assessment and trade statistics for these specific types of printed woven cotton twill fabrics.