5209.52.00 - 3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill

This HTS category, 5209.52.00, specifically classifies woven fabrics of cotton that are printed. To fall within this classification, the fabric must contain 85 percent or more by weight of cotton and weigh more than 200 grams per square meter. The defining characteristic for this subcategory is its weave structure: it must be a 3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill, and it must be printed.

Distinguishing this category from its siblings, 5209.51 covers plain weave printed fabrics, and 5209.59.00 encompasses other printed fabrics not falling into the twill or plain weave structures. Therefore, the key differentiator for 5209.52.00 is the specific twill weave combined with the printing application.

The subcategories within 5209.52.00, namely 5209.52.00.20 (Not napped) and 5209.52.00.40 (Napped), further refine the classification based on whether the surface of the printed twill fabric has undergone a napping process. This distinction is important for customs purposes as napping can alter the fabric's texture and appearance.