5209.43.00.30 - Not napped (218)

This HTS classification, 5209.43.00.30, specifically covers woven fabrics of cotton that contain 85 percent or more by weight of cotton, exceed 200 grams per square meter in weight, and are made from yarns of different colors. Furthermore, these fabrics are characterized by a weave structure of 3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill, and are explicitly **not napped**. This means the fabric surface remains in its original woven state without any raised fibrous texture.

This category is distinguished from its sibling, 5209.43.00.50, by the absence of a napped finish. While both classifications share the core characteristics of being cotton-rich, heavyweight, multi-colored yarn twill weaves, the presence or absence of napping is the defining factor for differentiating them for customs purposes. This distinction is crucial for accurate tariff assessment.

As this is a leaf node within the HTS, there are no further subcategories under 5209.43.00.30. Classification at this level requires a thorough examination of the fabric's weight, cotton content, yarn color, weave structure (specifically 3-thread or 4-thread twill), and the absence of any napping treatment. Examples of such fabrics could include durable twill materials used in workwear, upholstery, or certain types of luggage where a distinct woven texture and lack of surface fluffing are desired.