5209.43.00 - Other fabrics of 3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill

This HTS category, 5209.43.00, specifically covers woven fabrics of cotton that are characterized by a 3-thread or 4-thread twill weave, including cross twill constructions. These fabrics must contain 85 percent or more by weight of cotton and exceed a weight of 200 g/m². The defining feature of this classification is the use of yarns of different colors, woven together to create distinct color patterns within the fabric.

Distinguishing this category from its siblings is crucial for accurate classification. Unlike 5209.41 which deals with plain weaves, or 5209.42.00 which is specifically designated for denim (a particular type of twill weave), 5209.43.00 encompasses a broader range of twill weaves employing multi-colored yarns. Furthermore, it differs from 5209.49.00, which covers "other" multi-colored woven cotton fabrics that do not fit the specific twill constructions or denim definition.

Within 5209.43.00, further distinction is made based on the finishing treatment applied to the fabric. The subcategories, 5209.43.00.30 and 5209.43.00.50, differentiate between fabrics that have not been napped and those that have undergone a napping process. Napping involves raising the surface fibers of the fabric to create a softer texture and can significantly alter the fabric's feel and appearance, thus necessitating a separate classification.