5209.32.00.20 - Not napped (317)

This HTS category, 5209.32.00.20, specifically covers woven cotton fabrics that are dyed and constructed using a 3-thread or 4-thread twill weave. To fall within this classification, the fabric must contain at least 85% cotton by weight and have a weight exceeding 200 grams per square meter. The "not napped" designation is a crucial distinguishing factor, indicating that the surface of the fabric has not undergone a process to raise the fibers.

This classification is distinguished from its sibling category, 5209.32.00.40, by the absence of a napped finish. While both are dyed, 3-thread or 4-thread twill woven cotton fabrics weighing over 200 g/m², the presence or absence of napping is the key differentiator. Napping creates a soft, fuzzy surface, whereas fabrics classified under 5209.32.00.20 retain their original woven texture without this additional finishing.

As this is a leaf node in the HTS classification system, there are no further subcategories. Therefore, the classification is definitively determined by the combination of the material (cotton), weave (3-thread or 4-thread twill), weight (over 200 g/m²), dyeing status, and the absence of a napped surface. Examples of goods that might fall under this classification include certain types of durable cotton twill upholstery fabrics, heavy-duty workwear materials, or robust bag fabrics that are dyed but not brushed or sheared.