5209.32.00 - 3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill

This HTS classification, 5209.32.00, specifically covers dyed woven fabrics of cotton that contain 85 percent or more by weight of cotton and weigh more than 200 g/m². The defining characteristic of this category is its weave structure: a 3-thread or 4-thread twill, which includes cross twill. This weave creates a diagonal pattern on the fabric surface, distinguishing it from simpler weaves.

Within the broader category of dyed woven cotton fabrics exceeding 200 g/m², this code differentiates itself from its siblings. Unlike 5209.31, which is designated for plain weave structures, 5209.32.00 focuses exclusively on twill weaves. It also stands apart from 5209.39.00, which encompasses other types of dyed woven cotton fabrics not classified under plain or twill weaves.

The subcategories under 5209.32.00 further refine the classification based on the fabric's finishing. These subdivisions are crucial for accurate tariff application. The primary distinction lies between fabrics that have not undergone a napping process (5209.32.00.20) and those that have been napped (5209.32.00.40). Napping involves raising the surface fibers of the fabric to create a soft, fuzzy texture, a significant physical characteristic for classification.