5209.31.60.90 - Plain weave duck (219)

This HTS category, 5209.31.60.90, specifically classifies dyed woven fabrics of cotton that contain 85 percent or more cotton by weight and weigh more than 200 g/m². The "plain weave" designation signifies a basic over-under interlacing pattern, distinguishing it from other weave structures. This particular subcategory covers plain weave cotton duck fabrics that do not fall under the specific descriptions of poplin, broadcloth, or sheeting.

The distinction from its sibling, 5209.31.60.20 (Poplin or broadcloth), lies in the weave structure and fabric construction. While poplin and broadcloth are also plain weaves, they are characterized by finer yarns and a more tightly woven, often lustrous appearance, whereas duck fabric is typically characterized by its strength and durability, achieved through coarser yarns and a more open weave. The "sheeting" sibling refers to plain weave fabrics typically used for bed linens, which may have different yarn counts and finishing.

As this is a leaf node, there are no further subcategories to introduce. Therefore, the classification of a fabric under 5209.31.60.90 depends on confirming it meets the primary criteria of being a dyed, plain weave cotton fabric exceeding 200 g/m², and not being specifically classifiable as poplin, broadcloth, or sheeting. The term "duck" in the description points towards fabrics with inherent strength and often a canvas-like texture.