5209.31 - Plain weave:

This HTS category, 5209.31, encompasses dyed woven fabrics of cotton that contain a minimum of 85% cotton by weight and have a weight exceeding 200 grams per square meter. The key characteristic for classification within this heading is the weave structure, specifically a "plain weave." This means the warp and weft yarns interlace one over another in a simple, alternating pattern, creating a balanced fabric. These fabrics are commonly used in a variety of textile applications due to their durability and the substantial weight of the material.

This category is distinguished from its siblings by its specific weave type. For instance, 5209.32.00 covers fabrics with a "3-thread or 4-thread twill" weave, which creates a diagonal rib pattern. Similarly, 5209.39.00 encompasses "other fabrics" within this broad heading that do not fall under the plain weave or twill classifications. Therefore, the defining factor for 5209.31 is the simplicity and balance of the plain weave structure in dyed, heavy cotton fabrics.

Within this plain weave category, further subdivisions exist to account for specific production methods or origins. Subcategory 5209.31.30.00 specifically identifies "certified hand-loomed fabrics," recognizing artisanal production. The remaining fabrics within this plain weave group are categorized under 5209.31.60 as "Other," which would include machine-woven plain weave fabrics that do not meet the criteria for certified hand-loomed status.