5209.12.00.20 - Not napped (317)

This HTS classification, 5209.12.00.20, pertains to unbleached woven cotton fabrics that contain 85 percent or more cotton by weight and weigh over 200 grams per square meter. Specifically, it covers fabrics constructed using a 3-thread or 4-thread twill weave, which includes variations like cross twill. These fabrics are characterized by their diagonal ribbing pattern created by the twill construction.

It is crucial to distinguish this category from its sibling, 5209.12.00.40. The key difference lies in the finishing treatment. While this classification is for "not napped" fabrics, meaning the surface has not been raised or brushed to create a fuzzy texture, the sibling category specifically covers "napped" fabrics, which have undergone such a finishing process.

As this node is a leaf node, there are no further subdivisions. Therefore, classification within 5209.12.00.20 relies on confirming the fabric's composition, weight, weave type (3 or 4 thread twill, including cross twill), and the absence of any napping treatment on its surface. Examples of such fabrics might include heavy-duty twill cotton used for workwear, upholstery, or durable bags where a smooth, unbrushed surface is desired.