5209.12.00 - 3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill

This HTS category, specifically 5209.12.00, classifies unbleached woven fabrics of cotton that contain 85 percent or more cotton by weight and exceed 200 grams per square meter. The defining characteristic of this classification is the weave structure: it exclusively covers fabrics exhibiting a 3-thread or 4-thread twill, which includes cross twill patterns. This specific weave imparts a distinct diagonal ribbing to the fabric.

To distinguish this category from its siblings, it's important to note that 5209.11.00 covers plain weave fabrics, which have a simpler interlacing pattern, and 5209.19.00 encompasses all other twill weaves not meeting the 3-thread or 4-thread criteria. Therefore, the precise twill structure is the key differentiating factor at this level.

The subcategories within 5209.12.00 further refine the classification based on whether the fabric has been napped. The subdivisions, 5209.12.00.20 (not napped) and 5209.12.00.40 (napped), differentiate based on whether the fabric surface has been raised to create a soft nap. This distinction is important for subsequent processing or end-use considerations.