5209.11.00.20 - Poplin or broadcloth (314)

This classification covers plain weave cotton fabrics that are unbleached and weigh over 200 grams per square meter. Crucially, these fabrics must contain at least 85% cotton by weight, aligning with the broader scope of Chapter 52 concerning cotton. The "plain weave" designation refers to the simplest and most common weave pattern, where each weft thread passes over and under successive warp threads. This specific category focuses on the raw, unbleached state of these heavier cotton textiles, indicating they have undergone minimal processing beyond the weaving itself.

The primary distinction of this category lies in its exclusion of specific types of plain weave fabrics found at the same level. While this node captures general poplin or broadcloth, its sibling, 5209.11.00.90, specifically enumerates "plain weave duck." This means that while both are plain weave and meet the weight and cotton content requirements, fabrics specifically identified as duck are classified under the sibling, whereas other types of poplin or broadcloth fall here. The "poplin or broadcloth (314)" designation indicates a specific type of plain weave known for its fine ribs, achieved by using a higher number of warp threads than weft threads.

As a leaf node, this classification does not have further subcategories. Therefore, classification within this specific code hinges on the precise characteristics of the fabric, namely its unbleached state, plain weave structure, weight exceeding 200 g/m², cotton content of 85% or more, and its identification as poplin or broadcloth. Importers and exporters should ensure their goods precisely meet all these criteria to correctly classify their merchandise under HTS code 5209.11.00.20.