5209.11.00 - Plain weave

This HTS category encompasses unbleached woven fabrics primarily composed of cotton, where the cotton content by weight is 85% or more, and the fabric weighs over 200 grams per square meter. These are typically heavier cotton fabrics, not treated or colored, and intended for further processing or use in applications requiring durability. The "plain weave" designation is crucial, indicating a basic over-under interlacing of warp and weft threads that forms a simple, uniform fabric structure.

This classification is distinguished from its siblings by its weave construction. Unlike 5209.12.00, which specifically covers 3-thread or 4-thread twill weaves (characterized by diagonal lines), or 5209.19.00, which captures other fabric types, 5209.11.00 exclusively pertains to fabrics utilizing a plain weave. This difference in interlacing pattern dictates the fabric's drape, texture, and strength.

Within this plain weave category, further subdivisions exist to specify particular types of fabrics. These include poplin or broadcloth (5209.11.00.20), known for its fine rib effect and smooth finish, and plain weave duck (5209.11.00.90), a heavier, more durable fabric often used for canvas and workwear. These subcategories refine the classification based on the specific application and construction of the plain weave fabric.