5208.31 - Plain weave, weighing not more than 100 g/m²:

This HTS category, 5208.31, specifically classifies dyed woven fabrics of cotton. To fall within this subheading, the fabric must contain 85% or more cotton by weight, and the total weight must not exceed 100 grams per square meter. The weave must be plain, meaning each weft yarn interlaces alternately above and below each warp yarn in a simple over-and-under pattern. This weight and weave restriction are key distinguishing factors for this classification.

Within the broader category of dyed woven cotton fabrics (5208.3), this subheading differentiates itself from sibling categories based on weight and weave structure. For instance, 5208.32 covers plain weave dyed cotton fabrics that weigh *more than* 100 g/m², while 5208.33.00.00 is designated for dyed fabrics with a 3-thread or 4-thread twill weave. Category 5208.39 encompasses other types of dyed woven cotton fabrics that do not fit the plain weave or specific twill definitions.

The subcategories under 5208.31 further refine the classification. The existence of 5208.31.20.00 for "Certified hand-loomed fabrics" indicates a special designation for textiles produced using traditional hand-weaving methods, likely with specific certifications. The remaining "Other" subcategory is for all other dyed plain weave cotton fabrics weighing not more than 100 g/m² that do not meet the criteria for certified hand-loomed goods, ensuring a comprehensive classification structure.