5208.19.20.20 - Sateens (326)

This HTS category, 5208.19.20.20, specifically classifies unbleached woven cotton fabrics that contain 85% or more cotton by weight and do not exceed 200 g/m² in weight, when they are constructed with a satin weave. Sateen fabrics are characterized by their smooth, lustrous surface, achieved through a weaving pattern where warp yarns float over multiple weft yarns, creating a continuous surface without distinct diagonal lines like a twill. This distinct weaving structure is the primary defining characteristic of goods falling under this specific subheading.

Distinguishing this category from its sibling, 5208.19.20.90 ("Other"), is crucial for accurate classification. While both subheadings cover unbleached cotton fabrics of the specified weight and cotton content within the "Other fabrics" group of 5208.19, the ".20.20" subheading is exclusively for those exhibiting a satin weave. The ".90" subheading would therefore encompass all other unbleached woven cotton fabrics that meet the general criteria but are woven in patterns other than satin (e.g., plain weave, basket weave, or other specialized weaves not categorized elsewhere).

As this is a leaf node within the HTS classification, there are no further subcategories. Classification terminates at this level, meaning that any unbleached woven cotton fabric meeting the weight and cotton content thresholds, and exhibiting a satin weave, will be classified under 5208.19.20.20. Practical considerations for classification would involve confirming the fabric's construction through visual inspection and potentially testing to verify the weave type and material composition.