5208.19.20 - Satin weave or twill weave

This HTS category encompasses unbleached woven cotton fabrics that are not of plain weave, weighing no more than 200 grams per square meter and containing 85% or more cotton by weight. Specifically, it addresses fabrics constructed using either a satin weave or a twill weave, excluding those classified under more specific subdivisions. The key differentiator for this subcategory lies in the weave structure beyond a simple plain weave, where threads interlace in a manner that creates a distinct surface appearance and fabric feel.

Within the "Other fabrics" heading, this classification serves as a catch-all for unbleached cotton textiles that meet the weight and cotton content criteria but are not of a plain weave. The distinction from potential sibling categories would be based on the specific weave type. For instance, if a "Plain weave" subcategory existed at this level, fabrics with more complex interlacing patterns would be directed here.

The subcategories within 5208.19.20 further refine the classification based on specific satin weaves or other twill variations. The existence of "Sateens" and "Other" subdivisions indicates a need to differentiate between the distinct characteristics of sateen weaves, known for their smooth lustrous surface, and other twill weave constructions that may not fit the sateen definition. This allows for more precise classification based on the visual and structural attributes of the fabric.