5514.23.00.40 - Duck, except plain weave (219)

This HTS category, 5514.23.00.40, specifically classifies dyed woven fabrics of polyester staple fibers. These fabrics must contain less than 85 percent by weight of synthetic staple fibers, with cotton being the primary or sole other fiber component. Crucially, the fabric's weight must exceed 170 grams per square meter. The "duck, except plain weave" designation indicates that these fabrics are characterized by a twill or satin weave structure, distinguishing them from other woven fabric types.

To further refine classification, this category differentiates itself from its siblings. HTS code 5514.23.00.20 specifically covers fabrics in a satin or twill weave, while 5514.23.00.90 encompasses all other woven fabrics within the broader polyester staple fiber category that do not fall into the satin or twill weave descriptions. Therefore, 5514.23.00.40 captures dyed woven polyester staple fiber fabrics that are not plain weave and specifically fall under the "duck" category, implying a specific construction beyond simple twills or satins.

As this is a leaf node within the HTS structure, there are no further subcategories. Classification at this level relies on the precise combination of fiber content, weave construction (specifically excluding plain weave and falling into a "duck" type, which implies a diagonal rib effect), weight, and dyeing status. Importers must carefully examine the fabric's construction and composition to ensure accurate classification under this specific code.