5514.22.00.20 - Not napped (617)

This HTS classification, 5514.22.00.20, specifically covers woven fabrics manufactured from synthetic staple fibers that constitute less than 85 percent of the total weight, with cotton being the primary or sole other fiber component. The fabric must exceed a weight of 170 grams per square meter. Furthermore, these fabrics are dyed and are characterized by a 3-thread or 4-thread twill weave, which includes cross twill patterns. The defining attribute of this particular code is that the fabric is "not napped," meaning its surface has not been raised to create a fuzzy texture.

The distinction between this category and its sibling, 5514.22.00.40, lies solely in the finishing process. While both are dyed twill weaves of polyester staple fibers mixed with cotton and exceeding 170 g/m², this classification is for fabrics that remain in their smooth, un-napped state. The sibling classification, conversely, pertains to identical fabrics that have undergone a napping process to create a softer, more textured surface.

As this is a leaf node within the HTS, there are no further subcategories. Classification under 5514.22.00.20 is final and depends on the precise material composition, weight, weave structure, dyeing status, and the absence of a napped finish. This ensures that only fabrics meeting all these specific criteria are accurately classified for customs purposes.