5211.39.00.20 - Sateens (326)

This HTS category, 5211.39.00.20, specifically classifies sateen fabrics woven from cotton. These fabrics fall under the broader classification of woven cotton fabrics containing less than 85 percent cotton by weight, mixed mainly or solely with man-made fibers, and weighing more than 200 g/m². The defining characteristic of sateens is their weave structure, which creates a smooth, lustrous surface on one side due to the arrangement of warp and weft threads, often referred to as a "satin weave."

Within the "Satin weave or twill weave" level, this classification is distinguished from its sibling category, 5211.39.00.40, which encompasses "Other" fabrics of the same weight and fiber composition that do not specifically conform to the satin weave structure. Therefore, the critical distinguishing factor is the specific satin weave construction that results in the characteristic smooth finish.

As this is a leaf node in the HTS, there are no further subcategories. Classification under 5211.39.00.20 hinges on the fabric meeting all the criteria of its parent categories, including the cotton content, weight, fiber mixture, dyed status, and specifically exhibiting the satin weave pattern. The "sateens" designation highlights the common commercial name for fabrics fitting this technical description and weave.