5211.32.00 - 3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill

This category, HTS Code 5211.32.00, specifically classifies woven cotton fabrics that contain less than 85% cotton by weight, with man-made fibers being the primary component of the blend. Furthermore, these fabrics must weigh more than 200 grams per square meter and be dyed. The defining characteristic of this subcategory is its weave structure: a 3-thread or 4-thread twill, which includes cross twill patterns. This weave creates a distinct diagonal line appearance on the fabric's surface.

Distinguishing this category from its siblings, 5211.31.00 (Plain weave) and 5211.39.00 (Other fabrics), is crucial. Fabrics classified under 5211.31.00 are characterized by a simple interlacing of warp and weft threads, forming a basic grid pattern. Category 5211.39.00 encompasses all other woven cotton blends not meeting the specific twill or plain weave descriptions. Therefore, 5211.32.00 is exclusively for dyed, heavier cotton-man-made fiber blends exhibiting a 3-thread or 4-thread twill construction.

The subcategories, 5211.32.00.20 (Not napped) and 5211.32.00.40 (Napped), further refine the classification based on the fabric's finishing. Napping involves raising the fibers on the surface of the fabric to create a soft, fuzzy texture. If the twill-woven fabric has undergone this process, it falls under the napped subcategory. Conversely, fabrics that retain their original smooth surface after weaving and dyeing are classified as not napped. This distinction is important for determining the fabric's tactile properties and intended end-use.