5209.51 - Plain weave:

This HTS classification, 5209.51, specifically covers woven fabrics of cotton that contain 85 percent or more cotton by weight and have a weight exceeding 200 grams per square meter. The defining characteristic of this category is that these fabrics are "printed." This implies that a design, pattern, or image has been applied to the surface of the fabric through various printing techniques, distinguishing them from plain, undyed, or uniformly colored fabrics.

The primary distinction from its sibling categories, 5209.52.00 (3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill) and 5209.59.00 (Other fabrics), lies in the weave structure and the presence of printing. While siblings might encompass twill weaves or other unprinted fabric constructions within the same weight and cotton content parameters, 5209.51 is solely dedicated to cotton fabrics that have undergone a printing process. The weave itself is further specified as "plain weave" within the description for 5209.51, indicating a simple interlacing of warp and weft yarns.

Within this printed plain weave category, further subdivisions exist to refine classification. Subcategory 5209.51.30.00 pertains to "Certified hand-loomed fabrics," recognizing a special designation based on production method. The remaining "Other" subcategory, 5209.51.60, captures all other printed plain weave cotton fabrics meeting the weight and composition criteria that do not qualify for the hand-loomed designation.