5209.21.00 - Plain weave

This category, HTS Code 5209.21.00, specifically classifies bleached woven fabrics of cotton that contain 85% or more cotton by weight and exceed a weight of 200 g/m². The defining characteristic here is the "plain weave" construction, which involves a simple interlacing of warp and weft threads where each warp thread passes alternately over and under each weft thread. This results in a balanced fabric structure and a smooth surface.

Distinguishing this category from its siblings is crucial for accurate classification. HTS 5209.22.00 covers twill weaves, characterized by diagonal lines formed by the interlacing of warp and weft threads, including the more complex cross twill. HTS 5209.29.00 encompasses all other woven fabric constructions within this chapter and weight/composition criteria that are not plain weave or twill. Therefore, the key differentiator for 5209.21.00 is its specific plain weave structure.

Within this classification, further distinctions are made to accommodate specific types of plain weave fabrics. Subcategories include "Poplin or broadcloth," known for its fine, even weave and smooth finish, often used for shirting. Additionally, "Sheeting" is further detailed, with a specific subcategory for "Plain weave duck," which typically refers to a strong, closely woven plain weave fabric often used in applications requiring durability. These subdivisions allow for more granular classification based on the specific construction and intended use of the plain weave cotton fabric.