5209.19.00.60 - Duck, except plain weave (219)

This HTS category, 5209.19.00.60, specifically classifies unbleached woven fabrics of cotton that contain 85% or more cotton by weight and exceed 200 g/m². The defining characteristic for inclusion in this particular subheading is that the fabric is *not* a plain weave. This encompasses a variety of weaves beyond the fundamental plain weave structure, such as basket weaves or dobby weaves, which create distinct textures and patterns.

Crucially, this category is distinguished from its sibling, 5209.19.00.90 ("Other"), by the specific exclusion of satin weave and twill weave constructions. Those weaves, while also not plain weaves, are designated for separate classification. Therefore, fabrics falling under 5209.19.00.60 are unbleached, heavy cotton wovens that employ weaves other than plain, satin, or twill.

As this is a leaf node in the HTS structure, there are no further subcategories. Classification within this specific code is determined by the presence of the specified cotton content, weight threshold, unbleached state, and the absence of plain, satin, or twill weave constructions.