5209.19.00.20 - Sateens (326)

This HTS classification covers sateen woven fabrics composed of 85 percent or more cotton by weight, exceeding 200 grams per square meter, and presented in an unbleached state. Sateens are characterized by their smooth, lustrous surface, achieved through a specific weave structure where warp threads float over four or more weft threads, creating a distinct sheen. This category specifically targets unbleached cotton fabrics that utilize this satin weave, distinguishing them from fabrics with other weaves within the broader "other fabrics" designation.

The key differentiator for this subcategory, 5209.19.00.20, lies in its specific inclusion of fabrics woven in a satin weave. It contrasts with its sibling category, 5209.19.00.40, which encompasses all other types of woven cotton fabrics that do not fall under the satin or twill weave definitions within this unbleached context. Therefore, the presence of the characteristic sateen weave is paramount for correct classification under this heading.

As this is a leaf node in the HTS structure, there are no further subdivisions within this specific classification. Classification decisions at this level should focus on confirming the material composition (85% or more cotton), the weight (over 200 g/m²), the unbleached state, and the presence of a satin weave structure as per the established definitions.