5208.59.20 - Satin weave or twill weave, other than 3-thread or 4-thread twill or cross twill

This HTS category, 5208.59.20, encompasses printed woven fabrics of cotton, weighing no more than 200 grams per square meter, and containing 85% or more cotton by weight. Specifically, it covers those printed fabrics that do not fall under the 3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill classifications. The primary criterion for inclusion here is the fabric's weave structure, excluding certain specific twill patterns while including others that are satin weave or other twill weaves not otherwise specified at this level.

To distinguish this category from its sibling, 5208.59.10.00, the key lies in the weave pattern. While 5208.59.10.00 explicitly covers 3-thread or 4-thread twills (including cross twill) that are printed, this category, 5208.59.20, pertains to printed fabrics that exhibit a satin weave or other twill weaves that are not the specific 3-thread or 4-thread variations. This necessitates a careful examination of the interlacing of warp and weft yarns to determine the correct classification.

The subcategories within this classification, "Sateens" and "Other," provide further refinement. The "Sateens" subcategory will detail printed cotton fabrics with a satin weave, characterized by long floats of warp yarns over weft yarns, creating a smooth, lustrous surface. The "Other" subcategory will then capture any remaining printed cotton fabrics that meet the general criteria of this level but do not conform to the specific satin weave or the excluded twill weave patterns.