5208.59.10.00 - 3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill (317)

This HTS category encompasses printed woven cotton fabrics that meet specific weight and composition criteria: they must contain 85 percent or more cotton by weight and not exceed 200 g/m². The defining characteristic of this classification is its weave structure: it specifically covers 3-thread or 4-thread twill weaves, including the variant known as cross twill. These twill weaves are identifiable by their distinct diagonal lines formed by interlacing warp and weft threads in a specific pattern.

This classification is differentiated from its sibling category, 5208.59.20, which also covers printed woven cotton fabrics meeting the weight and composition requirements but features different weave types. While this node is dedicated to 3-thread or 4-thread twill and cross twill, the sibling category covers satin weaves or other twill weaves that do not fall under the specific 3-thread or 4-thread definition. The "Other fabrics" sibling category would encompass printed woven cotton fabrics meeting the general criteria but having weave structures not otherwise specified, thus serving as a residual category.

As a leaf node, this classification does not have further subdivisions. Therefore, accurate classification relies on the precise identification of the weave structure as a 3-thread or 4-thread twill, or a cross twill, in conjunction with the fabric being printed and meeting the stipulated cotton content and weight limitations. Examples of fabrics falling here would include printed cotton drills, serge, or gabardine specifically constructed with these twill variations.