5208.49.40.20 - Jacquard woven (220)

This HTS category, 5208.49.40.20, specifically classifies Jacquard woven fabrics of cotton that contain 85% or more cotton by weight and do not exceed 200 g/m² in weight. The defining characteristic of goods within this subcategory is the use of the Jacquard weaving technique. This method allows for intricate, multi-colored patterns to be woven directly into the fabric through the use of a special loom attachment that controls individual warp threads.

It is important to distinguish this category from its siblings. While 5208.49.40.10 covers "Oxford cloth," which is typically a plain or basket weave fabric, and 5208.49.40.90 encompasses "Other" fabrics within the broader "Other fabrics" category of different colored yarns, this specific code targets fabrics where the pattern is created by the Jacquard mechanism. The visual complexity and manufacturing method are the key differentiators.

As a leaf node, there are no further subdivisions under this HTS code. Therefore, classification under 5208.49.40.20 is final for cotton fabrics meeting the weight, fiber content, yarn color, and weaving technique criteria outlined. Examples would include decorative upholstery fabrics, intricate brocades, or complex patterned damasks where the design is an integral part of the weave, achieved through Jacquard machinery, and meets all other specified physical characteristics.