5208.39.80 - Of number 69 or higher number

This HTS category, 5208.39.80, specifically classifies dyed woven fabrics of cotton, where cotton comprises 85% or more of the weight and the fabric does not exceed 200 g/m². The defining characteristic of this subcategory is that the fabric is manufactured from yarns of "number 69 or higher," indicating a finer thread count. These are typically lighter and more densely woven fabrics compared to those made with coarser yarns.

This distinction is crucial for accurate classification. Sibling categories, such as 5208.39.40 and 5208.39.60, differentiate based on yarn number ranges. Fabrics classified under 5208.39.40 are made from yarns numbered 42 or lower (coarser threads), while those under 5208.39.60 fall within the intermediate range of numbers 43 to 68. Therefore, 5208.39.80 targets the finer end of the yarn spectrum within this group of dyed cotton fabrics.

The subcategories under 5208.39.80 provide further specificity based on the weave structure and general fabric type. The classification differentiates between "Oxford cloth," a distinct and well-recognized weave with a basketweave appearance often used in shirting and home furnishings, and all other fabrics falling under this yarn number specification. This allows for precise identification and accurate duty assessment based on the specific construction of the fabric.