5208.33.00.00 - 3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill (317)

This HTS category, 5208.33.00.00, specifically classifies dyed woven fabrics of cotton that contain 85 percent or more by weight of cotton and do not exceed 200 g/m² in weight. The defining characteristic for this subcategory is its weave structure: a 3-thread or 4-thread twill, which includes cross twill patterns. These twill weaves create diagonal lines on the fabric surface, distinguishing them from plain weave constructions.

To differentiate this category from its siblings, consider the weave pattern. HTS codes 5208.31 and 5208.32 fall under "Plain weave," differing only by their weight thresholds (not more than 100 g/m² and more than 100 g/m², respectively). Similarly, 5208.39 covers "Other fabrics" within the dyed cotton category, which would include any other weave structures not specifically defined elsewhere, such as sateen or dobby weaves. Therefore, the presence of a 3-thread or 4-thread twill weave is the crucial factor for classifying goods under 5208.33.00.00.

As this is a leaf node, there are no further subcategories. Classification at this level relies solely on the material composition (cotton content), weight per square meter, dyeing status, and the specific twill weave construction (3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill). Examples of products falling into this category include certain types of chino fabric, denim where the twill pattern is evident, and other specialized twill weaves of dyed cotton meeting the specified weight criteria.